Now That’s Iced Coffee!

It’s that time of year again. On the sweltering sidewalks of New York, everyone is staying hydrated by keeping a cup of iced coffee within sipping distance at all times. But I’ve never been a big fan. Iced coffee only really tastes good with lots of milk and sugar, and I try to avoid the…

Cuba Calling

Basically the capricho is a strata. But the tiers of bread, covered with guava jam and custard, only makes a brief trip through the oven–to brown the meringue on top. The result is layers of stuff that do not meld, remaining in their constituent parts. And bread soaked in custard, no matter how good the custard, is still bread.

Pie in the Sky

Thanks, indeed for a beautiful, crisp and clear fall day for the first Thanksgiving at Kate’s first home. This year’s gathering of international and food-obsessed guests was reflected in the menu that blended traditional elements with the tastes of Mexico and the British Isles. Here’s the menu:   Squash on Toast.  Amelia took this a step…

Seeing Red

Top of my list this time of the year will always be the tarte tatin–a simple, beautiful, French upside-down cake that traditionally showcases apples and is equally comfortable on the brunch or dinner table.

The Velvet Truth

Enough already. The out-of-control cupcake craze of the past few years has peaked, leaving a trail of overwrought treats in its wake (and the somewhat frightening prospect of a cupcake vending machine.) Perhaps the most collateral damage has been done to the reputation of the Red Velvet Cake, touted by many bakeries as the ultimate variety,…

Cake and Crema

You’ve probably seen those jars in the dairy aisle, next to the sour cream or cream cheese. Something called crema — from Mexico, or Salvador, or Guatemala, or even L.A.  And you’ve likely wondered what it was, or how exactly it was different from the nearby cream and/or sour cream. Well, stop wondering and pick up…

Key Lime Pie, Anyone?

In appreciation of Nora Ephron, who, well before she became known for writing and directing quintessential chick flicks like When Harry Met Sally and Sleepless in Seattle, was one of the first authors to weave recipes into a novel. Her semi-autobiographical Heartburn uses recipes to reflect the thoughts of her main character, a food writer, who at one…

Gang Activity

Easter was a group effort this year in DC, with friends gathering at the communal table and sharing their best celebratory dishes to serve with a cognac-marinated leg of lamb. We were too hungry to get a lot of photos… but can absolutely testify to the tastiness of everything. The menu: Slow-Roasted Leg of Lamb. Marinated…

Eastover Offerings

A dinner companion the other evening recalled his childhood in Pine Bluff, Arkansas, where dishes for the Passover seder were prepared by the housekeeper. Like a scene out of The Help, she’d then turn around and make the family’s recipes, like  kugel, for her own church suppers, calling it Easter dressing. It was the perfect…

Bread, Fast and Slow

Easter and the beginning of Passover coincide this weekend, which presents an opportunity to reprise experiments in bread both leavened and unleavened. A lesson in povitica Mamma, matzoh!